Multipitches routes are for me the quintessential adventure you can have in rock climbing. It’s the mixed into all climbing can offers. More than a sport, it’s a true adventure witch permit to discover inaccessible worlds. Rare are activities which offer much contemplation.

You can practice multipitches routes after a discover day. With a good climbing guide, you don’t need any prerequisites. In Provence, there are climbing routes for anyone.

For more experienced climbers, I propose to climb the legendary routes of our region. Some places like Verdon, Calanques, Sainte Victoire have lot of very beautiful routes, of all levels. The rock is always amazing. My experience in multipitches, my knowledge of those areas will help you to enjoy this type of climbing, and will make you want to progress!

For examples:

Easy routes:

• Arête du grand couloir, Sainte Victoire
• Herbetto, Verdon
• Traversée Ramon – Castelvieil, les Calanques

Moderate routes:

• Eperon de l’Ermitage – Sainte Victoire
• Grand Parcours – Sainte Victoire
• Arête de Marseille – Grande Candelle, Calanques
• Grande Arête – Devenson, Calanques
• Toit Branlant, Swing – Castelvieil, les Calanques
• Arête du Belvédère – Malines , Verdon

Hard routes:

• La Demande, ULA –  l’Escalès, Verdon
• Pâte Demande – Verdon
• Coryphène – Devenson, les Calanques
• Pour la mémoire de nos enfants, Etat d’urgence – Devenson, Calanques

Long multipitches and big walls:

• Verdon: Dièdre des Aixois, Chariots de Thespis (easy aid climbing, night in portaledge)
• Calanques: Long traverse adventures over the sea. Possible to organize a multiday traverse.
  • Traversée Magilou (Cancéou).
  • Could be chained in a single very long route (grande traversée du Devenson): traversée du Baron, traversée du GEP, traversée des écureuils, traversée Ramon, traversée sans retour, traversée de la grande croisière and traversée Tabarly.
  • Morgiou: El cap! 39 bolted pitches!
• Spain: Roca Regina, Sopeira, Montrebei, Ordesa…

If you are interested to deepen your knowledge, I recommended you a week stage. In Verdon or Calanques, you are sure to spend sunny holidays, and the big walls of Provence will offers you the best learning you can have on routes I know.

Furthermore, long routes in traditional climbing are possible. Half day, day, week end or week.

All in security, don’t hesitate to contact me!

Nicolas Gay, rock climbing guide, active in Povence, Marseille, Les Calanques, Cassis, Sainte Victoire, Verdon

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